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#Wii points generator that works full

The 6 volt battery should have the positive battery cable connected directly to the frame. Be certain that any wiring you’ve done is at LEAST as big as what your Ford came with to keep from choking the system.Usually the culprit is in the ground…. The wires in a 6 volt system are considerably larger than in a 12 volt system. Naturally the battery has to be charged with good clean posts.

DIM LIGHTS:ĭim lights are usually caused by low voltage to the light or by a weak ground. MoPar and GM generators are not polarized in this manner due to their different design. The field wire MUST be disconnected from the regulator. NEVER use a jumper wire to keep from disconnecting the fieldwire at the regulator it’ll ruin the regulator in a hurry. Bare the end of this an inch or so and wrap it around something grounded (like an ashtray) when you want to charge the battery.POLARIZING A 2 BRUSH FORD GENERATOR:ĭisconnect the FIELD terminal wire at the regulator and momentarily touch this wire to the BAT terminal of the regulator. If you want to keep driving and not have to keep stopping, connect an insulated wire to the field terminal of the regulator or generator and route it to the inside of the car. To prevent this excessive overheating, only ground the field for 10 minutes maximum at a time. Which will eventually melt the solder in the armature and ruin it.

#Wii points generator that works full

Remembering that this will cause the generator to go to full charge, it is only logical that such action will cause the generator to overheat.

If the generator charges when you ground the field it’s possible to rig up a ground on the field terminal to charge the battery in an emergency. To increase any of these settings, remove the cover and bend the rest that the flat spring rests upon upward.

When an emergency occurs on the road, the regulator can be adjusted in an attempt to coax a defective regulator into working.

the voltage relay is directly behind the FIELD terminal.

the current relay is directly behind the ARM terminal.

the cutout relay is directly behind the BAT terminal.

Since the 6 volt regulators are still mechanical and can be set, it may be beneficial to know what is where inside them. Note the generator may have shorted out the regulator when it went bad. If the ammeter does not show charge, the generator is defective. If the ammeter shows charge when you ground the field, the regulator is at fault. Grounding the field removes all external regulation on the generator and it will go immediately to full charge mode. To test a Ford generator and/or regulator on the car, simply ground the field terminal at either the generator or regulator with the engine turning about 1000 rpm and watch the amp gauge (do not disconnect any wires). … unlike MoPar and GM which ground through the regulator. The field circuit has an internally grounded field. Two brush Ford generators use the shunt type generator design. The 1949 – 1951 engines crank 130 rpm (without an automatic transmission) The starter cranks a stock flathead engine at 100 rpms. The starter current draw on a Ford V-8 through 1948 is 550 amps (does not include V-8 60’s). I’ll use the term “VOM” to denote volt/ohm/amp/meter.